A long standing wish to visit the holy grail of trekker’s paradise, Sandakphu. Well, I have been thinking, planning, speculating, urging friends to make this trip happen which was taking place for the past 2-3 years, but was just not taking shape until this year. I finally decided to set on a solo journey to fulfil one of my bucket list wish to trek to the highest point in West Bengal, Sandakphu especially during spring time, as it was a perfect time to witness the lovely Rhododendron blooms in the whole Signalila Range.

But since I didn’t want to delay until May, as the chances of rain would have been much higher then. So tried for 14th April and luckily got confirmed tickets which was perfectly matching with a scheduled fixed departure on 15th April’ 2017.Hence, on 14th april, I boarded the train to NJP (dep 11.55pm) which had a scheduled arrival of 10 am next morning. But, as usual train got delayed by 2 hours and instead I reached NJP by 12 pm. From NJP, I got into a pre booked cab which was arranged by our trek group and was shared by four other people from my trek group. It was very encouraging to meet a 62 year old retired man, who was also joining us for the trek.

Chitrey Base Camp
Chitray Base Camp


Chitray base camp

Day1(Chitrey) – From NJP, we travelled straight to chitrey, from where we were to commence our trek next day. Chitray was at an elevation of 7000 ft (approx) a picturesque hamlet falling into Nepal side which is located just 3 kms uphill from Maneybhajan. I reached Chitrey at around 4pm. My fellow trek mates, who were travelling from Bagdogra had already reached an hour before us. The tower signal was almost negligible and if one tries a lot, can manage to get a Nepal network on their phone. After reaching Chitrey which took me almost 4 hours from NJP, the temp suddenly dropped to almost 8-9 degrees, also because it was then drizzling slightly. That day, we stayed at the trekkers hut which was pre booked for us. Since, it was our first day at the camp, so all were charged up and excited, we decided to set up a mini born-fire under partial windy conditions just to enjoy the starry lit sky and to utilise this opportunity to get acquainted with each other. It was a perfect day to end with conversation, introductions and greeting each other over a hearty dinner and not to forget a pitcher of Hot Tongba (local fermented hard drink made out of millet), which is a must try when trekking in this part of India bordering Nepal. The taste was bit weird and funny, considering the fact that it was a beer and that too a hot one!!!

Enroute Tumling

Day2 (Tumling)- Got up at 6.30 am, and almost the last one to wake up. It was a clear sunny weather outside, perfect day to begin our journey. As we had to trek for 9kms to Tumling (the next hault). We started our trek at 8.30am bidding goodbye to Chitrey. It was like one of those moments of “all my bags are packed; I am ready to go”!! As I reached a little ahead, I almost jumped with joy to witness my first sight of the Sleeping Buddha with mighty Kanchenjunga quite clearly. It was a mesmerizing sight of snow-capped peaks with clouds playing peek-a-boo. It was a beautiful sight with the lush green trees, and the pink & red Rhododendron blooms, as if they were complimenting each other in perfect harmony.

Nepal on the other side of the fence-Megama
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Enroute Tumling -Above the clouds

We stopped at a place by 11am after covering 3kms for some chai break. After having much needed break, we headed for Megama which was our next stop for Lunch (another 3 kms from here). As we walked upwards, the weather changed suddenly and it was foggy and misty. So with our hunger pangs and tired bones we reached Megama at around 1 pm. We hurriedly grabbed our wai- wai noodle soup, as that was the only lunch option. The weather was changing and we had to head to our destination which was another 3 kms from there, so we started off post our lunch without wasting much time. We finally reached Tumling at around 3 pm. Tumling is a small hamlet in Ilam District of Nepal at an elevation of 10000 ft (2970 mt). The view of Kanchenjunga was just spectacular from the balcony of our home stay. The day ended with laughter, discussion, rounds of warm tea and sumptuous dinner.

The old Land rover is the only four wheeler plying up in that route-Tumling
Mighty Kanchenjunga and Rhododendron blooms

Day 3 (KALIPOKHRI)- Our guide Yogen (young little enthusiastic Nepali chap) came to wake us up by 5 am so as to rush to the view point, where the sunrise at Kanchenjunga was to be seen. I quickly grabbed my woollies and rushed to climb the small cliff like structure where already a small pool of tourist was standing to catch a glimpse of first golden rays on the peak. As the clock struck 5.30 am, we could see the first rays of sun, reflected on the mountain peaks. And within few minutes the entire sleeping Buddha was glowing with the ray of golden light. It was a mesmerizing feeling ever!! Along with Kanchenjunga, we could see the other peaks clearly. Few tourists also ran a bit further up as locals said that even the Tibet range of mountains like Mt. Makalu, Mt. Lhotshe and even Mt. Everest was also visible. After the breakfast, we started off at 8 am as today we had to cover a distance of 13 kms to Kalipokhri which means “dark or black lake”. Weather was bright and sunny and the view just spectacularly clear.

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I wish I could fly upto that peak. Enroute Kalipokhri

This day, we also entered the Signalila forest range, which was full of pine, oak, bamboo and Rhododendrons trees. It appeared as if the entire mountain range was covered in brown patches but actually they were flowers blooming everywhere. We reached Gairibas at about 11am for our obvious tea break, and utilised the time interacting with few German trekkers who had come all the way to trek here. After Gairibas, we headed another 2kms uphill (this time) for our lunch, the place was called as Kaiyakatta. Around 2 pm and after having not so nice but filling lunch, I took off to cover the last 4 kms to Kalipokhri taking couple of shortcuts which was steep and rough alley of stairs and occasional mud path carved out by locals meandering through the mountains. I reached Kalipokhri at around 4.15 pm. Few others who were lucky to reach earlier braced themselves with hot tea and hot pakoras whereas unfortunates like me who made it a bit later, had to settle for cold tea and cold pakoras!!! Post the tea session, I decided to take a short stroll around the hut, although my knees and the feet were aching terribly post the trek. I pass through a herd of mountain goats which locals were steering back to their home. I suddenly saw, the sun was setting amidst the cloud. It felt almost as if I was standing above the clouds, and the sun was looking like a golden ball settling just behind a mountain.

Sunset at Kalipokhri
The village where we camped at Kalipokhri

This was by far the best view I could witness, and I was awestruck with this.  My stay today was in a bamboo hut dorm style with one make shift toilet, which was totally outside the hut and secluded. So the idea of going to the toilet in the middle of the night was nothing less than a nightmare even more because our topic of discussion that night was spooky too. The night sky was crystal clear and the same was adorned with stars and infinite galaxy. I stood their star gazing for about 10 mins but it was impossible to stand and bear the chilly winds which was gushing through the clear night sky giving me shiver to the bone.

Rhododendron bud blooming in Signalila forest
Sandakphu Trail

Day 4 (Sandakphu)-We started for our final destination comfortably at 8.30 am, Sandakphu (3636 mt) highest point in West Bengal.  We had to cover only 7kms uphill which was relatively easy. So, I took it easy and started at my own pace. But this day was very cloudy and foggy and the visibility was very poor on the way. The entire trail, we took was full foggy and misty. The last 3 kms was steep hike upto Sandakphu point. So I finally made it to the top at 12.30pm, feeling accomplished. Although it was disappointing to find it still very misty and foggy up there, as I could not see any view around. In the evening, I remained confined to my room and took rest hoping to get a clear view the next day.

While Trekking down the rhododendron forest

Day 5 (Sirikhola)- I peeped out from my little window at 5 am in anticipation, if the weather was clear or not. Sigh!! there was heavy cloud all over the sky. Yet my roomie and I decided to wake up from our slumber and give it a last shot, as after-all we had come all the way to Sandakphu to witness the mighty Kanchenjunga. But in-spite of rushing to the highest point at dawn, we could not see a clear sky and came back a bit disappointed.  I was still positive and happy that all throughout our trek, I could at least witness the peaks crystal clear right upto Sandakphu. So those memories were far heavier than having to sulk or brood on the fact to miss the chance to catch a glimpse of the entire mountain range from Sandakphu. So after a hearty breakfast, we bid goodbye to our lovely cottage which was otherwise at a fantastic location and started our descent towards Sirikhola which was about 15 kms downhill from here. And this descent was surely very steep and tough on my wobbling and tired knees as I had to scale down from 3636 mts to 1900 mts (almost 6000ft downhill) in 15 kms. I started my descent very slowly Initial 5 kms, which involved steep terrains, muddy shortcuts through the pine forest was ok. There was a steep descent just 2 kms before Gurdum which was supposedly our lunch stop. I made it to Gurdum at about 12.50 pm where all others along with some lip smacking Aloo parathas were waiting for me. Surely did it not only comfort my gastronomical delight after such long, but also help me out to forget about the muscle pain for some time.

Picturesque Hamlet of Srikhola- the trek ended but a new journey commenced

Descent to Sirikhola was comparatively better than before. I crossed lovely pine forest and river Teesta gave me a scenic company, flowing all the way along the trail. I finally reached Sirikhola trekkers hut at 4.30 pm. Our trek was completed on a successful and rejoicing note.

I can definitely say that I was very fortunate enough, that just after half an hour later, I reached Sirikhola, hailstorm started and it started to pour incessantly. I was thanking my protective functions which just made me feel so lucky inside that I didn’t get stuck in hail storm. It kept pouring all through the night giving it a perfect end to my trek trails!!!

Day 6 – I departed for Darjeeling bidding all other goodbye as they left for Bagdogra/ NJP/ Home onward.

My learning and take back from the trip- It’s been a journey which was all about learning, realization and testing my potential. I came out of my comfort zone and lived my days out of my backpack, made friends, talked to locals, to understand the hardship, to appreciate each smaller little things which may seems very little but has a deeper meaning. I felt extremely content to have been able to ticked off one more wish out of my bucket list.  I now look at it, I realized that journeys are actually way more important than the destination. What I said not because I could not witness any stunning view at the top. But it is because, I trekked for 5 days covering about 45 kms chasing something which I could not get the view of. Still I feel that I could achieve the inner joy of finding my new love for mountains. I think I m just hooked on to this and I will definitely going to take up many more treks.



  1. Pingback: SANDAKPHU DIARIES – Confessions of a travelholic

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  3. Jaitegh Mokha

    Incredible! Having trekked a lot in Himachal, it is certainly time to explore this area! Loved the article! Is it possible to hike alone or without guides?

    On a scale of 1-10, what would you rate it in terms of difficulty?

    1. Debjani Lahiri

      Well the trek level is generally rated from easy to moderate depending on the climatic conditions ..yes every trekker must visit this place .It is generally recommended to opt for a guide since they guide u to signalia range of forest ..howvever, experience trekkers can do it alone too.

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